We stroll out of Petits Plats after meeting Rémi, quite content, a little bemused, our senses tingling, and, above all, our tastebuds dancing for joy!
It’s difficult to build a reputation in such a foodily-saturated city, and Rémi — being a modest man — hasn’t been promoting himself all over the place. Hence this article. À mon humble avis, Petits Plats hasn’t received even half the attention it deserves since opening in September, but I’m crossing fingers (and writing this in the hope) that 2015 is when it’s all going to kick off.
Rémi brings to Copenhagen that quintessentially French way of enjoying food. His food is far from the New Nordic style, pioneered by Noma, that we are so accustomed to seeing in Scandinavia. Instead, the focus is on the traditional French recipes.
‘Petit Plats’, aka ‘Little Dishes’, are exactly what Rémi makes. They might be truffle risotto with cured ham, paté, mini quiches, brioche buns fresh out of the oven, or the coup de grâce: les tartes au citron meringuées!
These tartes really deserve an entire article all for themselves, but I’ll acquiesce with a mere paragraph. What an absolutely divine composition of flavour and texture — the acute tartness of the lemon topped with the the perfectly textured meringue. on a firm-but-not-too-firm pastry base.
What more is there, food-wise? The cheese, the wine and the meat, all especially handpicked by Rémi on his epic foodie trip around France. He’ll be able to advise you in detail about how their age and region affects the taste.
Rémi lives in Copenhagen with his Danish wife, Lotte. He is a Frenchman through and through, albeit with some Italian in his family line (this portrait shows his Italian ancestors). He is from Lyon, “the foodie centre of France”.
Labelled so because of its proximity to the exuberant fruits and vegetables of Provence, the vin de Bourgogne up north, the mountain ranges and plateaux of Vercors where one can find the best charcuterie, saucisson and jambons crus. When Rémi tells the story of his trip around France to choose suppliers for Petits Plats, he paints a vivid picture of the tiny hut at an altitude of 1000m, where the meat hangs out over the mountain pass, drying in the pure alpine air. You can taste it in the meat
Taking up the back wall is a huge map of France-by-cheese-and-wine, detailing all the regions and origins of wine and cheese in the country.
All in all, it’s very authentically and indisputably French — the man, the food, the décor. Petits Plats is a place where you can truly appreciate the love and care the French have for food.
Petits Plats is on Øster Farimagsgade 8 and is open Tuesday — Friday: 11:00–19:00 and Saturday: 11:00–17:00. Keep updated on Facebook or Instagram.